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天空中没有翅膀的痕迹,而我已经飞过......

My wings don’t leave any trace in the sky, but I had my fly...

我走了,象一发出膛的炮弹,给容纳过我的空间, 留下了什么?我落到哪里并不重要。重要的是曾经有过声音,速度和光亮……

I am leaving, like a bullet,

What have I left?

In the space that has contained me?

Wherever I go,

Wherever I land,

All out of question.

What really matters, is

I have had my voice, speed and light… 

 

Yan’s Writings About Denmark - Content


我的瑞典导师之一:最后的晚餐 - 别了,哥本哈根

My Swedish Supervisor: The Last Supper – Farewell, Copenhagen

The American business school I had applied to requested three recommendations. My Swedish supervisor filled out one. To confirm her recommendation, she typed an additional letter in English, which is, not an effortless task for Danish and Swedish college professors. I saw this, and without saying anything grateful, this moment was firmly imprinted into my memory. Her recommendation letter complimented me to the extreme; its copy, I have carefully kept to this day.

 

This Chinese restaurant, a shape of a Chinese dragon boat, floating in great canal of Christianshavn in Copenhagen was like Børsen(http://borsen.dk), where I passed by every day. Is it still there today?

 

It was this boat we came in and sat down, Maja, my supervisor and I, for our last supper.

 

It was an August day. After that day I would go to America, a place everybody says good. “America good country. People make rich money.” That is common broken English I often hear from different people, of different color, in different accents. I didn’t know whether I had a so-called American dream, yet everybody else confirmed that I did. I didn’t know whether it was worth it giving up my scholarship in Denmark to become a completely self-sponsored student in America; once again, everyone else told me it was. It was worth it, for an American dream.

 

Our conversations were always conducted like this: for Maja, it was always half Swedish and half English, and for me it was half Danish and half English. I had boasted about my language skills, but throughout my five years in Denmark, my understanding of Swedish remained a problem. My supervisor Maja refused to learn Danish, so we shifted our conversation completely back to English, as if time had been returned to its starting point, to five years’ ago, when I just arrived in Denmark and when I had no Danish language skills. In five years, I had developed Danish skills, to my own surprise and my language teachers’ surprise, to the top of a pyramid. Now I allowed myself to drop down from the pyramid top to the bottom again as I would completely abandon it. Did it mean I had drawn a circle in five years, returning to the origin where I started? This circle was like a dream, I had blinked my eyes and a Danish dream vanished.

 

The restaurant was floating by the bridge crossing Christianshavn canal. I remember each time when a ferry passed by, passengers were crowded at the two ends. For countless times I saw the gigantic bridge open from middle, being lifted, and the big five story high ferry slowly pass through.

 

After our last supper Maja and I hugged our last hug. Neither of us cried. I never cried when I was young. It is strange why I cry so often nowadays.

 

Slowly I walked to the bus stop. I didn’t look back to see if Maja had looked back to look at me.

 

The day was bright when we entered the restaurant and now it was all dark. In the canal, all the lights lit on the dragon boat joined the city lights of Copenhagen, and their rippled reflections magically changed everything into a surreal mirage of Consort Jiao Yuan Chun’s visit in the splendid Grand View Garden.

 

Once again I looked around at Copenhagen, the beautiful capital of the oldest European kingdom.

It was here where I walked all of its small alleys by foot. It was here

where my youth had wandered around. I had inhaled its fresh morning air,

walked on its quiet morning streets and was tempted by aromas of different

kinds of wienerbrøder (Danish pastry). I passed through its busy mornings,

noons, and afternoons. I knew both its prosperity and its loneliness.

I had even once slept in one of its small alleys one Saturday night when we, accompanied by that famous 1990’s song, went “downtown, downtown”…

 

It was here where my black hair, black eyes, yellow skin, and short figure stood out among seas of blonde hair, blue eyes, and tall Danes. Some of them, though extremely polite, threw a glance at me in a sly. It was here, in its longest pedestrian street Strøget, the city welcomed me as a warm host and again and again, I took it as my own home, guided its tourists, served them, and bargained for the good deals for them, on its behalf.

 

In its center, I often took my rest at Carlsberg museum, free, quiet and soothing. On Nørregade I escaped from seas of tourists and enjoyed my reading on window edge inside of Rundetårn. I had enjoyed botanic garden’s sunshine and my afternoon naps there. I had walked on Denmakr’s various kinds of beaches, sandy or rocky.

 

Denmark’s symbol, Den Lille Havfru, its 10-year-old boy had tour guided me and I had guided it later to countless tourists. At Amalienborg I “hurraed” to another Danish symbol, Hendes Majestæt Dronning Margrethe II. I joined my classmates in 1993 in EU vote. In 1992, I took the small ferry of my Swedish professors’ daily commute to Malmö. In 1994, I had spent whole year writing about building of Øresundsbro and got good review from the Danish Ministry of Transport. But when building was completed in 2000, broen(the bridge), Danmark(Denmark) and I were aparted by Atlantic and whole America.  

 

It was here where I attended my new students’ orientation at Copenhagen Business School where my future blond classmates at Finance and Accounting department knocked at tables in rhythms: “Girls, please join us! We - want - girls! We – want - girls!” I remember the surprise on their faces when they saw me: “O My God! A foreign girl!” In this department where more than 90% of the students were boys, they were waiting for me to attend classes in September!

 

But it was the last night for me to be under its wings, as I had been under Maja’s wings for five years. I had to say farewell to Copenhagen, the city where I had been well hosted and I had hosted on its behalf. It was as if I was saying farewell to my youth.

 

At the last night before my departure, Copenhagen and it is city lights looked blurry in my eyes. Or is it because my blurry eyes had blurred them? Here was the place where I had spent my youth. Suddenly, on my last night it became refreshed and intriguing, as fresh and intriguing as the village opera for a sleepy young Lu Xun when they gradually drove home. At the time of my departure, it gave me an urge to go back.

 

Looking around Copenhagen in its twinkling lights, I was glad and sad. I had spent my youth here, a city both ancient and modern, both traditional and liberal, both international and always being itself. I was glad it was crowned the cultural capital of Europe, and I was sad I was going to leave. Copenhagen is a lot like its symbol, Den Lille Havfru, the little mermaid, tiny and gigantic, shy and brave, tiny in size and gigantic in spirit, charming to the bone. It is home of many fairytales, and many fairytales are love stories. In my sorrow I smiled, as it had made my otherwise dull youth distingué. It made my youth, in my heart, a fairytale, a love story. 




 

美国大学要的三封推荐信,我的瑞典导师玛雅填了一封。又加了一张纸,用英文打字,对于丹瑞教授们来说,也是要颇费些功夫。这张纸极尽美言。它的复印件,我留到今天。

 

这个浮在哥本哈根大运河上的中国饭店(现在还在吗?), 和对面的Børsen一样,也是我在哥本哈根的最后一年,天天经过的地方。

 

在这里我和玛雅对面坐下,吃最后的晚餐。

 

本来我们之间的对话一直就是半英半丹半瑞的:她一半英文,一半瑞典文;我一半英文,一半丹麦文。在丹五年,和瑞典只隔四十分钟,瑞典话我却是怎么也听不太懂。玛雅又坚持不学丹麦文。这个晚上干脆全部回到英文。仿佛时间倒转,和五年前我刚到丹麦的时候一样。五年的时间我的丹麦文从零长到近乎母语的水平,仿佛从塔底升到塔尖。现在又从塔尖落回到塔底,干脆是不用的了。五年的时间走了一个圆。起于原点,又回到原点。早知如此,当初干嘛开始这个圆?也许人到了人生的终点也一样的惶惑。人生就是画个园圈。重要的是画过了。天空中没有翅膀的痕迹,而我已经飞过。“…… 我走了,象一发出膛的炮弹,给容纳过我的空间, 留下了什么?我落到哪里并不重要。重要的是曾经有过声音,速度和光亮…… ”

 

五年仿佛做了一个梦,使劲眨巴眨巴眼,一个丹麦的梦就不见了。

 

餐馆就浮在跨运河大桥的旁边。大桥是八条车轨的沥青路,外加两条自行车道。一次次过船的时候,大家被挡在路的两边。我看见沉重的大路从中间断开,高高举起。然后如五星酒店一般的巨轮缓缓通过。

 

吃完饭我和玛雅拥抱很久。北欧人比美国人拥抱得次数多和时间久,但是从来不会有这么久。但是谁也没哭。我年轻的时候从来不哭,奇怪的是三十岁以后怎么老哭。

 

慢慢地我一个人走到桥边等公共汽车的地方。在夜风中向四处望去。进餐馆的时候天还亮着,现在大船上下,灯火通明,和哥本哈根的灯光交相辉映,在水中闪耀。把一切幻化成元春省亲时的梦境。

 

我向万家灯火的欧洲美城再一次望去,这里我用双脚踩边它的一条条小街。在三里半长的走街踩下一个个故事。一次次这座欧洲文化首都是接纳我的热情的主人,一次次我是它的主人,它是”我的城市”。我给来我的城市的游客带路,服务,甚至讨价还价。

 

在这里有五百多年的老校哥本哈根大学,那是我学习丹麦文的地方。在这里有哥本哈根商学院(Copenhagen Business School),是我连新生训练都参加过了的地方。记得金融会计专业的老生们有节奏的拍着迎新的桌子喊:“我们要女生! 我们要女生!我们要女生!……”然后他们对着我惊呼:“啊!外国女生!”在这个百分之90%都是男生的专业,他们还等着我九月份去上课呢。

 

 

在这里我的青春四处游走。我呼过哥本哈根 (København) 清晨的空气,走过它寂静无人的早街;我看过它晚上的繁华与寂寞;甚至还在它的青石板街上睡了一觉。我垂涎过它早上五点刚出炉的各类 wienerbrød (丹麦甜饼)的甜香;我走过它上午,中午,下午的闹市。在一群群金发碧眼高大白肤中的黑发黑眼矮小黄肤是这么惹眼,让有礼的丹麦人时不时快速偷瞟一眼。在它的市中心我经常坐在免费的清凉Carlsberg博物馆休息;在Nørregade大街为了躲过喧闹的行人我坐在安徒生写大眼狗的童话的园塔(Rundetårn)内的旋转楼梯边的宽大窗台上看书。在它的植物园我晒过太阳,睡过午觉。在它的海边,我光脚走过细沙,走过岩岸。

它的象征美人鱼小小的铜像,它十岁的孩子给刚到的我导游;然后我又一次次给刚到的别人导游。在Amalienborg皇宫,我看过丹麦小国的另一个象征,一米八高的丹麦女王(Hendes Majestæt Dronning Margrethe II)。

 

九三年丹麦公投加入欧盟(European Union)的时候,我和我的同学们一起走到投票处,看他们填票投票的样子。九二年我坐着今日已经绝迹的气垫船驶到隔壁的瑞典。我的瑞典老师们每天就坐着同样的船,早上从瑞典来丹麦上班,下午再坐船回瑞典回家。九四年我花了一年时间写关于Øresundsbro大桥的报告,向丹麦交通部汇报并且得到好评。而两千年Øresundsbro大桥通航的时候,我和它却是隔了整个的大西洋和美洲。

 

离去那晚的哥本哈根,朦胧的万家灯火把我的双眼闹花起来,也许是我朦胧的双眼把它闹花?在那个晚上这个我度过青春的地方,突然对我又充满了新奇与魅力。仿佛少年的鲁迅迷离的睡眼中渐行渐远的社戏。让我在向它告别的时候,突然又产生了向它奔去的欲望。